Brochure of Vocational Training for Mentally Handicapped : Chapter XII
PREPARATION OF HANDLOOM WEAVING WARP BEAM – THE PROCEDURE:
Yarn is purchased from yarn market (good quality of yarn is to be used.) First to make WARP thereafter WEFT, i.e., weaving. To make a warp requires a lot of preparations before it can be woven into a fabric. A Warp is to be prepared according to the types of fabrics to be made, its width, its length and what count of warp & weft yarn is to be used, etc., etc.
The following sequence may strictly be followed while preparing a WARP beam:
1. Warping Winding
: Warping bobbins are to be filled in by yarn, with the help of charkhas.
Creel
2. Creel Arrangements : A Stand, generally of ‘V’ shape. The main purpose is to hold warp yarns bobbins for the preparation of the warp beam.
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3. WARPING DRUM : The yarn from the creel bobbins is rolled over the Drum of the warping machine,
4. BEAMING : Filling the warp Beam with yarn which is already rolled over the Drum of the Warping Machine by rewinding system. It is manually operated. (In the Mills all these are done by power).
5. LOOMING : After the Beam is filled in, it is sent for drafting. Before the commencement of drafting, after the beam is ready, the next steps to be followed are :
i) wire heaids are to be arranged on the frames.
ii) the number of wire healds required for the equal number of thread, which is calculated according to the width of the cloth. iii) pass through the warpends of each yarn frorn the warp beam through to the eyes of heddle of the respective harness (drawing-in-frames).
iv) thereafter, the warp threads are drawn through the dents of the Reed or Comb. (In short Looming – drawing in warp ends through the eyes of the HEDDLES are reeding in on the warp yarns from the dent). The loom, thereafter, is prepared and ready for weaving.
6. WEFT – The thread is carried by the shuttle, from the shuttle box from right to left or left to right in between warp threads, alternately over and under, thus inter lacing.
SUMMARY :
1) Yarn, according to the requirements, is purchased from the market. (preferably to make a good and reasonably strong warp, use 2/20s count of yarn, to make good cloth) This is the standard count of yarn, generally used in a handloom to start the work.
2) Large bobbins (warping bobbins) are prepared with yarn with the help of high speed warping winding charkhas. They are manually operated. The filled in bobbins are arranged on Creel according to the size, i.e, the width of the cloth to be made.
3) According to the width of the cloth that is to be made, after calculations, so many number of warping bobbins are arranged on the Creel, calculating the repeat, (e.g. say you are using 2/20s yarn for warp. (Hence 36 threads will make ‘one inch’ of cloth). Accordingly, calculate the repeat for actual width of cloth that is to be woven finally.
4) Threads are taken over the Drum of the ‘Warping Machine’ from the Creel. One round of the Drum measures 4 metres usually. That is the way to calculate the length of the cloth to be woven and accordingly the Drum should make that many number of rotation.
5) The yarn from the Drum of the ‘Warping Machine’, is taken to prepare Warp beam by re-winding method. All the threads-end are tied up with beam, taken straight from the warping drum over (without overlapping on each other). Thereafter, the warp beam is rotated manually, with a handle provided for, to be filled with the yarn. This system is known as ‘re-winding warping methods’ In the Textile Mills this process is done automatically by electrical devices.
6) After the Beam is ready, it is sent for drafting, to the ‘Drafting Section’.
7) Drafting section drafts the Warp-Beam with wireheddles, and comb. The procedure is that each thread from the warp-beam is taken by the respective loop of the wire heddle and thereafter passed through the dent of the comb (Reed). In each dent of the Reed (Comb), there may be two threads for preparation of better cloth and for ordinary cloth, such as, Floor Swabs etc., one thread is passed through the Reed dent. Each thread has to pass through the loop of the wire-heddle. e.g. if there are five hundred threads there should be five hundred wire heddles. In this way the loom is finally prepared, and ready to weave. Before starting to weave finally, the loom should be ready in all respects to weave, such as, to see the adjustment of frames, connection of the Butt with pickers, foot pedals are tied up properly and correctly, with the required frames, to see the automatic roller is properly fixed with ‘Ravi Chakra’, where the fabric will be rolled. Also to make sure that the perforated metal strip is fixed properly with the beam where the finished fabric or cloth is rolled.
“The loom of life never stops and the pattern which was weaving when the sun went down is weaving when it comes up tomorrow.”
American clergy – Beecher