This spire led ships into MUMBAI’S HARBOUR…….FIONA FERNANDEZ
January 7 marked the 152nd anniversary since the Afghan Church, also known as the Church of St John the Evangelist, began its services. Built as a landmark for incoming ships to the harbour, this historic monument desperately needs a facelift before it fades out of public memory
January 7 marked the 152nd anniversary since the Afghan Church, also known as the Church of St John the Evangelist, began its services. Built as a landmark for incoming ships to the harbour, this historic monument desperately needs a facelift before it fades out of public memory
IT WAS Christmas time when we caught up with the parish priest of Afghan Church, Reverend Father Graham Engineer. Despite the buzz and a choral festival to organise, he readily played host and guide. Reading our minds, he unravelled gem after another of the church’s historic significance — “In the early 1800s, Rev Philip Anderson, the pastor of Colaba, set up a small, makeshift church, which got destroyed. By then, the First Afghan War ( 1838-43) was underway. The British East India Company recruited Indians with the false promise of granting independence. Subsequently, many joined units including the Bombay Garrison and the Bengal Regiment. Britain won the war but thousands of Indians and Britons died.” Rev Anderson approached the Company for a memorial to be built in their honour.
Building a monument
“This was an expensive war. Plans to build a proper church were underway since 1815,” adds Dr Mariam Dossal, city historian and author of Theatre of Conflict, City of Hope: Mumbai: 1660 to Present Times. She continues, “ George Gilbert Scott had suggested a costly plan which wasn’t accepted. Hydraulic Engineer Henry Conybeare was in the city to survey the Great Indian Peninsula Railway. He was closely associated with the Gothic movement and his plan for the Afghan Church was taken forward. The Afghan Church is the first Neo Gothic building in India and represented the evangelising Christian movement at the time.”
Rev Anderson got his plot, with a condition from the Company — that the tower or spire should stand out as a landmark and be built at a height of 210 feet. The original lease specified that the land west of the church was to always remain open, providing ships approaching Mumbai an unobstructed view of the spire.
“ Its foundation is only 6- 10 feet,” reveals Rev Graham. “ It was a secret. We discovered this recently when underground electrical work was undertaken.
It’s unbelievable how such a mighty landmark was built with such a modest base. It speaks volumes of the vision and skills of Conybeare and his team. The wrought iron gates and railings were designed by the first batch of students from Sir JJ School of Art, as their first practical assignment. It exhibits a blend of Indian motifs set against Christian art,” he says.
Enduring landmark
The wood for the main altar and the Minton tiles have never been replaced. The walls near the altar tell a thousand tales — etched in shades of marble, they display the names of officers from different regiments who died during the 1st Afghan War. Martyrs from the 2nd Afghan War ( 1879- 81) are mentioned in another set of marble epitaphs near the entrance. Unfortunately, despite building this magnificent landmark, there is no mention of Conybeare anywhere within the complex. “ Gothic style architecture can trace its beginnings to the Afghan Church and its culmination to FW Stevens’ Victoria Terminus — its role in establishing this style is crucial,” adds Dr Dossal.
Restore and return
Throughout our guided tour, Rev Graham’s tone lowers when we veer to its maintenance and a dwindling congregation. “ A partial restoration done five years ago was only a facelift for the interiors. We desperately need to repair the entire church for which funding is crucial,” he says, pointing to a deep crack that runs precariously close to the main altar. Next, he shows us the stained glass windows that were damaged by errant kids who use the churchyard to play cricket and football. In fact, we noticed the rampant discolouration and weeds sprouting on its outer façade. Earlier, funding for restoration was possible through the Church of North India, and donations and income from several film shoots done in its premises. Now, a bigger funding exercise appears imminent. A far cry from the 1850s, when banker Sir Cowasjee Jehangir readily donated Rs 75,000.
Uncertain destiny
What doesn’t help matters are the dwindling numbers of its congregation. “ Barely 40 people attend Sunday morning mass,” confesses Rev Graham. “ The Afghan Church is under tremendous stress from the builder lobby who want to take over this prime land by tempting churchgoers with incentives. This will be catastrophic not only for the community but also for Mumbai’s history and heritage. Associations like the Friends of Afghan Church Society need to be revived. Choral festivals, music concerts, guided walks and exhibitions keeping with the dignified spirit of the church can increase public interest in this beautiful legacy of ours,” believes Dr Dossal.
Unless heritage lovers and authorities join hands, Rev Graham and his parishioners might end up fighting a lonely battle to save this historic and handsome monument.
– Geographically, this church isn’t conveniently located. Plus, Navy Nagar has a floating population of Navy and military personnel. Some prefer to visit other churches in the neighbourhood. This is where we lose out.
Source: Mid-day, Page No 12, Dated: January 09, 2011